One of the most common questions for anyone involved in Scottish genealogy is around tartan – what is my family tartan, can I wear the family tartan, are there rules and protocol around the wearing or buying of tartan? Tartan is one of those universal Scottish symbols and there is understandably a lot of interest – and misunderstanding – around the topic.
History of Scottish Tartan
The weaving of checked fabrics isn’t exclusively Scottish, and there are many other regions of the world which have similar patterns. There is ongoing debate as to whether families or clans really did have their “own” tartan. One of the most plausible theories is that weavers served a distinct local area, and over time developed their signature patterns and colours using locally available natural dyes, handing down patterns and techniques through the generations. So was it really a family tartan, or just that everyone in the same area was getting their cloth from the same weaver? After the Battle of Culloden in 1746 which saw the end of the Jacobite cause, tartan was banned in Scotland along with many other aspects of the traditional clan structure.
Tartan fell out of fashion until the visit of George IV to Edinburgh in 1822. The royal visit, stage managed by Sir Walter Scott, put tartan firmly back in fashion. Everyone wanted in on the new trend, and the industrial revolution had made mass production of tartan cloth possible. The story goes that enterprising Edinburgh tailors quickly cobbled together a list of family tartans so that anyone wanting the latest fashion could be quickly advised on the “correct” one to wear. Whether this is true or not, there is little evidence of clan or family tartans pre-1822.
What Tartan Should I Wear?
There are certain tartans associated with named families, and the Court of the Lord Lyon, the official body which regulates heraldry, coats of arms and tartans in Scotland, maintains a comprehensive Register of Tartans. This is a great starting point if you do wish to wear something associated with your particular surname. However, it’s really important to stress that there are no rules. There’s no tartan police and no criticism for anyone who chooses to wear a tartan for whatever reason. Many people just choose colours or a pattern which appeals to them, and that is absolutely fine!
Another option if you’re not keen on wearing a tartan potentially associated with another surname is to choose something not linked to a name. There are area tartans such as the City of Edinburgh tartan, organisational tartans such as the St Andrews University tartan, and many more. Some of the tartans are marked on the Register as “restricted” and this often causes confusion. Restricted means the design has been copyrighted to stop people manufacturing and selling cloth with that particular design. It does not mean that the wearing of that tartan is restricted in any way.
So in essence, if you like tartan and wish to embrace your Scottish roots – however distant – go for it. Browse through the huge range of designs and choose what appeals to you most.
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